Imbibe acknowledges the potential of Patagonia’s Pinot Noir Print E-mail
mircoles, 26 noviembre 2008
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Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir
Journalist Tom Cannavan, who visited Argentina, wrote an article for “Imbibe” magazine, where he praised the Pinot Noir produced by Patagonia wineries.

"Patagonia has all the credentials to join the New World Pinot elite," claims Imbibe journalist Tom Cannavan, who was satisfied by the varietals produced in this part of Argentina. His full comment about the conclusions he drew from his trip to Patagonia was that "One of the most significant innovations in Argentina's wine industry in recent years is the increased surge in the production of Pinot Noir. So often the holy grail of both winemakers and enthusiasts, the grape has found just a handful of spots around the globe where it excels:  Burgundy of course, but outside of that, only Oregon in the USA and Central Otago in New Zealand have really got Pinot-fans' hearts thumping. And though Argentina is not often associated with the grape, Patagonia has all the credentials to join the New World Pinot elite. There are still only a dozen or so wineries here, but there are already some exciting wines and burgeoning potential."

Each one of the companies he visited earned paragraphs of praise in his article. He wrote that "perhaps the most remarkable story is that of bodega Chacra, a boutique winery in the Rio Negro district with Pinot vineyards that date from 1955 and 1932. Chacra is owned by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta (whose family owns Tenuta San Guido) and two silent partners. Rocchetta's guess is that the vineyards were originally planted by Italian immigrants, but quite why they chose Pinot Noir is unclear."

With regard to Guillermo Barzi's undertaking, Humberto Canale, Cannavan claimed that "although lacking Chacras wonderful old vine material, Humberto Canale is another Pinot name to watch in Rio Negro. Headed up by Guillo Barzi, the company began in the fruit-growing business, and with the help of winemaking consultant Susana Balbo, today produces over one million bottles of wine. According to Barzi, while the area has 'no hail, no rain, no pollution,' the big risk is frost. 'Our 1994 Pinot crop was totally destroyed.'  The good news is that, without hitting the heights (or prices) of Chacra, the Pinots here are impressive, particularly the Black River Gran Reserva with its silky, sumptuous depth of exotic spice and earthy, coffee-touched strawberry fruit."

In terms of Bodega Familia Schroeder, the journalist highlighted that "the winery operates by gravity-flow and their Saurus Select Pinot Noir2006 is suave and polished, with dense cherry and plum fruit that reveals a slightly truffly character. Schroeder is one of Neuquén's best Pinot producers, and there are good visitor facilities and a fine restaurant in this more developed wine district."

"The ambition is obvious in an operation with a capacity to produce 2.1 m litres annually. Its modestly priced Pinot Noir 2006 is fragrant and smoky, with light cherry fruit and a delicate spiciness," Cannavan said about Bodega Valle Perdido.

Last, but not least, he asserted that NQN, located in Neuqúen, is "another new project started by a businessman from outside the province ... where Lucas Nemesio has engaged the hugely experienced Roberto de la Motta to act as consultant winemaker. The Malma Reserve Pinot Noir2006 has thick, creamy black fruit and refined tannins."

Towards the end of the article, Cannavan expressed hopeful expectations about these wines: "In ten years will we be talking about Patagonia in the same breath as Oregon, Central Otago or even Burgundy? On this evidence, I wouldn't bet against it."

  • Link: http://www.winesur.com/ver_nota.php?nota=17803



Source: winesur.com - María Soledad González


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